Ancient Road of Kumano Osaka Route
The Kumano Kodo is a pilgrimage route that has been practiced since the Heian period by aristocrats and ordinary people who have made their wishes to the Kumano Sanzan (Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Nachi Taisha) in Wakayama. There are various routes from various locations, including the Kiiji route that connects Osaka and Kumano, the Iseji route that connects Ise and Kumano in Mie Prefecture, and the Koyado road that crosses Mt. Koya, but they are all difficult. The Kii route from Kyoto took about a month and was about 600km round trip. However, as the saying goes, "To reach Kumano, Kiji and Iseji are both near and far. If it is a path of vast compassion, Kiji and Iseji are both far away (Ryojin Hisho)", so it is never all about suffering. It was probably an important path to salvation. Now, the starting point for the overland route of Kiiji is around the Hachikenya Pier near Osaka Tenmabashi. In the city, the route of the old road from Shitennoji to Abeno and Sumiyoshi Taisha shrines remains along with guideposts, inviting the wanderlust. Let's make a wish and walk the ancient roads of the 21st century.
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START
OSAKA METRO Temmabashi Station
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3minutes WalkHachikenya Pier
It is said that the group came down from Kyoto by boat and landed near Tenmabashi, which in ancient times was called Watanabetsu, and after first paying a visit to Kubotsu Oji at the back of the beach, they started walking toward Kumano. During the Edo period, thirty-koku ships came and went, and the area was bustling with people and goods. Currently, a seawall is being constructed, and it is planned to become the base of a new water capital. A monument marking the site of the Hachikenya pier stands quietly in front of the Nagata Konbu store on the road west of Keihan Temmabashi Station. Head south from the Hachikenya Wharf ruins. If you go east after passing through the three parks of Kita-oe, Naka-oe, and Minami-oe and exit onto Nagahori-dori Street, you will be connected to the old road route of Kamishio-suji. Our goal from here is Shitennoji. There are signposts on the ancient path here and there, so walk carefully. If you are taking the train, return to OsakaMetro Temmabashi Station from the Hachikenya Wharf Ruins, then take the Tanimachi Line to Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Station. It takes about 3 minutes on foot to arrive at Shitennoji.
see spotAbout 15 minutes walkAbout 15 minutes by train -
SHITENNOJI
Shitennoji is Japan's oldest official temple, built by Prince Shotoku. Among the many gates, ``Nishidaimon'' attracts the faith of ordinary people who pray for the Pure Land of Western Paradise because the sun setting over Osaka Bay can be seen just on the other side of the gate. This gate is also called Gokurakumon. Listening to the sound of the bell, I put my hands together for a while, banishing thoughts. About 15 minutes walk from Shitennoji to Tennoji. One stop from Shitennoji Yuhigaoka Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line. Once you arrive at Tennoji's huge terminal, let's take a ride on Osaka's only Chinchin train, the Hankai Electric Tramway.
see spotApproximately 7 minutes from Matsumushi Station on the Hankai Electric Tramway -
Matsumushizuka
Immediately after entering the narrow track that passes by the eaves of private houses from the busy Abenosuji main street, get off at Matsumushi Station on the Chinchin train and walk about 100m west on the wide road of the Kizugawa-Hirano line, and you will find Matsumushizuka. be. It was on the verge of being removed by Osaka City's road plan, but it was left in place at the strong request of local people. Matsumushi refers to ``bell insects,'' and it is said that a traveler built this mound out of pity for the insects that chirped with a beautiful tone and lost their short lives. The 800-year-old Enoki tree that stands next to the mound has probably watched over the people visiting Kumano for many years. After returning to the station and walking down a narrow road, I came across the signpost for ``Kumano Kaido.'' Aiming for Abe Seimei Shrine.
About 15 minutes walk -
Abe Seimei Shrine
Abe Seimei Shrine is located along Kumano Kaido, about 7 kilometers from Hachikenya Wharf. It is said to be the birthplace of Abe Seimei, a genius onmyoji who served six emperors during the Heian period, and it is said to have been founded in 1007 (Kanko 4), two years after Seimei's death. First of all, what is an onmyoji? He is a mysterious being who is said to be a natural scientist who observed celestial bodies and created a calendar based on the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, which was introduced in China, as well as a sorcerer who divined good and bad fortune and manipulated God. The shrine is popular as the birthplace of fortune-telling thanks to the hit novels and movies about Onmyoji, but the grounds are thick with large camphor and ginkgo trees, giving it a dark atmosphere even during the day. I'm a little nervous.
see spotAbout 2 minutes walk -
Abe Oji Shrine
Abe Oji Shrine is about a 2 minute walk south from Abe Seimei Shrine. It is said to have been founded by Emperor Nintoku, and during the days when Kumano pilgrimage was popular, it was crowded with pilgrims as a ``prince'' along the Kumano Kodo. What is a prince? It was a place of worship, a place of rest, that was set up along the Kii Road from Hachikenya to Kumano. It is called "99 Princes" because there were many princes. There are many large trees within the precincts of this temple, but even in the past, when it was also called Kumano Pilgrimage for Ants, was there ever a shade that provided comfort to travelers? I suddenly thought about this in the quiet precincts... From Abe Oji Shrine, go south again along the wide road along the Kamimachi Line. If you're proud of your strong legs, walk. If you like rides, it's fun to ride the Chin Chin Train from Himematsu Station to Tezukayama 3-chome and Tezukayama 4-chome.
see spotApproximately 10 minutes on the Hankai Electric Tramway -
Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine
When you get off at Sumiyoshi Station or Sumiyoshi Torii-mae Station on the Hankai Electric Tramway, Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine will be right in front of you. Known for its nickname ``Sumiyossan'' and its vermilion-painted Taiko Bridge, it is one of the most popular shrines in the Kansai region, attracting one or two visitors each year for the New Year's visit. In ancient times, the sea was so close to the shrine that it was also called ``Suminoe'' due to its scenic beauty. He is still worshiped as a deity that protects the nation and protects navigation. The beautiful main hall, which has a gabled structure with a cypress bark roof and gables, is called Sumiyoshi-zukuri and is designated as a national treasure. The vast grounds are lined with over 600 stone lanterns donated by merchants from Osaka and Sakai in hopes of prospering their family businesses, making for a spectacular sight.
see spot - GOAL!
Additional Information
- Taste spot
- Hirota, a famous restaurant whose catchphrase is "Always delicious beans and rice"
- souvenir
- Sumiyoshi Taisha's lucky cat, Ikedaya Honpo's Suminoe miso.
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