About Osaka

The ocean is now in crisis. You can choose to do nothing, but I think a good chef tries to protect the source of life.

Olivier Laurenger has been saying that ``sustainability'' is an issue in the culinary world for over 20 years. At Relais & Châteaux, where I currently serve as vice chairman, I started working on this in 2010. As a result, Atlantic tuna stocks have recovered. Mr. Laurentje's beliefs are beginning to move reality.

The ocean occupies 70% of the earth. Long ago, life arose from this ocean. The sea is the source of life for all people. It's also a huge food store. For us chefs, this is extremely important.

I live in a small port town called Cancale in the Brittany region of France. The sea around this town has a large tidal difference, has more types of plankton than any other place in Europe, and is a treasure trove of fish. Plants that cannot grow unless they are soaked in seawater for several hours a day will also grow very well. In other words, it is a place protected by the waxing and waning of the ocean and the moon. Just under an hour's drive west is the port town of Saint-Malo. It is the homeland of the maritime people. Their paths lead to the Middle East, India, Asia, and the New World. The stories of the people who made the sea their place of life became the stories of the land and the cuisine of the land.

Not only is it delicious, but it is also ethical.

The ocean, the most important ocean for humankind, is currently facing a crisis. By the way, only 10% of the world's fisheries resources are sustainable. It is reported that 90% of the large fish living in the world's oceans have already been caught. Fish are disappearing from the world's oceans and dinner tables. Yet, 40% of the fish caught by large-scale fisheries is discarded without being eaten. What we need to be aware of here is the fact that large-scale fishing, not small fishing boats, is accelerating the crisis.

In Europe, 60% of fish caught is consumed in restaurants. If this is the case, it must be said that the responsibility that chefs have is grave. Of course, I think it is also possible to do nothing or continue doing your job without thinking about anything. What we need to do is not to ban fishing, but rather to ask chefs around the world what they can do to protect their local marine resources, for example by raising awareness in their respective regions. I think it's something to think about. To do this, it is important to first understand how endangered each fish is. Next is the fishing method. What method can I use without destroying the ecosystem? The third step is to decide how big a fish you can catch. The fourth one is the season. The spawning period varies depending on the fish. If you catch them before they spawn, their numbers will decrease. In order to break this negative chain, I believe that future chefs should be Bon Chefs (good chefs) rather than Grand Chefs. There is a demand for food that is not only delicious but also ethical. To achieve this, we must protect the diversity of the ecosystem while providing the joy and joy of eating. And protect human health and the health of the planet. I hope that many such ``Bon Chefs'' will emerge from Japan, which has lived its life with respect for nature.

"Fairies live in Brittany. Here you can taste the taste of poésy, brought about by the wind and temperature of the day. I think Cancale is that kind of place," says Laurenger.